Porcini mushrooms (Boletus edulis) are known as cèpes in France, where they are revered for their nutty taste and meaty texture. Stalking the wild porcini is an autumnal occupation, but the season is all too brief. And these mushrooms have never been cultivated, so once the seasonal window closes, it’s time to turn to the pantry.

Happily, the porcini is well-suited to drying, and its flavor actually intensifies. It seems that the aromatic, woodsy and earthy flavor concentrates into the meaty stem and cap when dried. These are mushrooms with attitude. Don’t get caught without a jar in the cupboard.